My outdoor adventures started aged 14 in Hunua and Tongariro. Our walking trips are a great way to combine my interests in the outdoors, birds, photography and travel.
— Fiona Mckinney
My first independent walk happened in 1961. I walked on my own from Sopot to Gdynia. Quite a memorable adventure for a five-year-old boy. And I am still enjoying all forms of walks.
— Karol Wojasz
© 2026 McWoyage. All rights reserved.
This was the final tick on our Great Walks checklist - our last big stride. We began our Great Walks journey back in January 2021 with the Lake Waikaremoana Track, and with the exception of 2024, we managed to squeeze in one or two each year. So yes, this felt a little like the closing chapter of a well-worn book. Though let’s be honest - New Zealand’s overflowing with tracks, big and small, just waiting to be explored. We're far from hanging up our boots! Compared to the Heaphy Track, getting to this one was refreshingly simple. We spent the night before at the Punakaiki Beach Camp, which turned out to be a great decision. Not only did they offer a comfy spot to relax, but they also whisked us off to the starting point at Smoke-ho car park. After finishing the trail, we simply strolled back to the Beach Camp—no stress, no shuttles to chase - and treated ourselves to one more night before continuing our South Island 2025 adventure. All in all, a fitting and relaxed finale to our Great Walks chapter.
Day 01
20-Mar-2025
Day one kicked off with an early start and over an hour’s drive from Punakaiki Beach Camp to the beginning of the track. After the obligatory photo stop at the trail signage - because if you didn’t snap it, did it even happen? - we hit the trail, full of beans and ready for adventure. Within the first hour, we were bouncing across multiple swing bridges spanning the Blackball, Clarke, and Smoke-ho Creeks, which made for a fun and scenic start. We soon reached the site of the 1st Hotel (1868), a good spot for a quick breather and to come to terms with what our feet had already figured out: this stony terrain was going to be with us for the long haul. From there, the path climbed steadily for another 10 km towards Ces Clark Hut. Along the way, we passed the 2nd Hotel Site and made a short detour at Gurden Gully to check out the site of a 1930s hut built during the Depression by hopeful gold prospectors. Seeing the “1 km to go” sign gave us a second wind, though it still took another 20 minutes to reach the hut. The day had been tougher than expected - not so much for the incline, but because of the relentless rocky footing. The reward? Sweeping views of the Southern Alps and glistening Lake Brunner below. Ces Clark Hut, while small and a bit old-school, has USB charging and bunk space for sixteen. We shared it with a tidy group of South Island trampers, though their love of showers and laundry seemed a little out of place given the precious water supply.
Day 02
21-Mar-2025
Day two began bright and early at 8 a.m., with the sun already warming the tops of the Paparoa Ranges. Below us, everything was wrapped in a blanket of mist - farmland and Lake Brunner completely hidden, as if we’d climbed into another world. Not long into the walk, we reached the sign for Croesus Knob, and curiosity (plus the promise of epic views) got the better of us. The 20-minute climb was steep but totally worth it. By the time I huffed my way to the top, Fiona was already busy snapping photos. From the 1,200-meter peak, we soaked in sweeping views of the Southern Alps - and yes, Aoraki made an appearance. Cameras were working overtime! Feeling a bit smug and slightly tired, we rejoined the main trail and carried on toward Te Whare Atarau Hut. The path took us along the top of the range, a classic undulating ridge walk with stunning views on either side. Clouds began to drift in as we walked, slowly cloaking the valleys below in soft white. By the time we reached the hut, we were definitely ready for a break. We claimed lower bunks - small victories matter! Unlike the Heaphy, there were no swimming holes to cool off in, but the hut itself was modern and comfortable, with separate kitchen and sleeping quarters. One quirky touch: the washing areas are completely open to the sky. Cleaning teeth under a cloud or two? Just part of the charm.
Day 03
22-Mar-2025
After finding the first two days a bit of a slog, we were both a little apprehensive about day three. The guide said 5 to 7 hours, but we estimated a solid 8 - eight hours of picking our way along uneven terrain didn’t exactly scream “relaxing holiday.” So we were genuinely surprised (and a bit proud) when we reached the Pike 29 Memorial Track junction in good time. From there, things slowed down, but in the best way. The views were just too good to rush - especially for Fiona, who happily snapped hundreds of photos as the landscape shifted around every corner. Beyond the junction, the track clung to the escarpment edge, serving up jaw-dropping views in all directions. Sheer cliffs fell away to the east down to Pike Stream, while to the west we could see all the way to Punakaiki and even up towards Westport. We followed the Poutini Waitaiki Pounamu Story trail, passing places with names as poetic as the scenery - Onewa Saddle, Obsidian, and the Argillite Basin. We stopped for lunch at the Emergency Shelter around midday, then continued on into the forested section. After crossing the Waterfall Suspension Bridge and Coal Creek, we passed through areas still showing the scars of cyclones Fehi and Gita. The final stretch followed Tindale Ridge, and just when we were starting to drag, we missed the “1 km to go” sign and suddenly saw the “2 minutes to hut” one instead. Best sign of the day!
Day 04
23-Mar-2025
The final day - on the Paparoa Track and of our epic 11 Great Walks journey - had finally arrived. We weren’t quite sure how to feel. A mix of quiet excitement and a touch of “oh no, this is it!” hung in the air. But feelings aside, we had a trail to finish. Light rain greeted us in the morning, so it was wet weather gear on and a brisk start into the forest. The first few kilometres turned into a game of rain jacket on, rain jacket off, until I gave up and just embraced the damp. From Pororari Hut, the track gently descends, following the beautiful Pororari River. Just after the Upper Suspension Bridge - where we bumped into our friendly hut warden - the trail joined an old route originally built by Nelson City to improve safety for early settlers. The beech forest was lush, the northern rātā trees showed off their crimson blooms, and remnants of Cyclone Ita’s impact were still visible in parts. As we left the mountain bikers to their own route, the final stretch was a stunner—high cliffs, swirling rapids, moss-covered rocks, and caves all hugging the Pororari River. Our cameras were working overtime. We crossed paths with a few cheerful day walkers doing the gorge walk - funny to think we were them back in 2015. A final photo by the trail sign (no selfies, of course), and a short wander across the road brought us full circle to Punakaiki Beach Camp. A celebratory beer and hot chai latte at the local pub sealed the deal. For now, boots off.