After a short drive from Karamea to the Kohaihai Campsite, we located the car transfer security box and were all set to kick off our Heaphy Track adventure. Before hitting the trail, we took a short side trip up to the lookout point for one last sweeping view over Kohaihai Beach, its wild beauty setting the tone for the days ahead. The track eased us in with a steady 45-minute uphill climb, then treated us to a series of gentle descents that gradually brought us down to Scotts Beach. With its windswept charm, golden sand, and rugged cliffs, it felt like a slice of wild paradise. The views were stunning, the isolation profound. Winding through lush forest, we eventually reached Katipo Creek Shelter - our halfway mark - where we paused for a quick, well-earned lunch. The path then danced along a coastline of striking beauty, where the rhythmic crash of waves on sand kept us company. The ocean sparkled invitingly, though its power reminded us to admire from a safe distance. After about six hours of tramping, we arrived at Heaphy Hut, happily claimed our lower bunks, and capped off the day with a refreshing dip in the Heaphy River - hankfully light on sandflies. A perfect end to an unforgettable day on the trail.

Day three was the shortest and a wet one - raincoats on from start to finish as we made our way from James Mackay Hut to Saxon Hut. The first couple of hours were mostly flat, with a gentle climb onto the Mackay Downs before the track dropped slightly into the open tussock plains of the Gouland Downs. Despite the grey skies, the wide, misty landscape had its own quiet charm. Along the way, we were entertained by signs warning us to watch out for giant snails and Takahe - very New Zealand! We didn’t spot any giant snails on the trail, although a few days later Fiona did find some empty shells. What we did see, though, was a treat - three Takahes happily grazing near Saxon Hut, totally unbothered by our presence. Saxon Hut turned out to be the oldest and smallest of the huts we stayed in, but it more than made up for that with its charm. Someone wisely decided to light the fire, and soon the whole place was warm and toasty, with a cheerful buzz as wet gear slowly steamed dry around the wood burner. That evening, as we chatted with fellow trampers over hot drinks, we discovered that some of them were in-laws of our old family doctor - only in New Zealand could the world feel so small. Despite the soggy boots and damp jackets, it was a day full of quiet beauty, wildlife surprises, and classic Kiwi connections.

Our final day on the Heaphy Track began under cloudy skies, so we set off from Perry Saddle Hut in full wet weather gear - but the forest had other plans. As soon as we entered the trees, the rain eased and the jackets came off. At Flanagan’s Corner, we took a short side trip to the highest point on the track and were rewarded with sweeping views over the Aorere Valley - a lovely final lookout. After a quick toilet stop at Aorere Shelter, we began the long, gentle descent through the forest. With no rush and plenty of photo breaks along the way, we strolled the 5-hour downhill stretch at a leisurely pace, soaking in the greenery and that quiet “almost there” feeling. By early afternoon, we reached Brown Hut, where we attempted a celebratory selfie at the Heaphy Track sign - let’s just say the results reminded us why selfie sticks exist. The final 350 meters to the carpark felt like a victory lap, and we were very relieved to find our car waiting -muddy but otherwise in perfect shape. Full credit to the car relocation company for a job well done! A short drive took us to Collingwood, where we checked into our accommodation, enjoyed gloriously hot showers, and treated ourselves to a delicious dinner (and a much-deserved glass of red) at the Courthouse Café. A perfect, relaxed end to an unforgettable adventure.